Rough Collie

A

Photo A shows Reagan, a Rough Collie; she came in for her fall bath, brush and tidy.  For the photo she has just been bathed and dried and is ready for a thorough comb out and trim of all those wild fringy areas.

It is very important that her coat is totally dry for the combing process.  A damp coat will not release loose undercoat nor will matted areas break up easily.  It is kinder to both the person grooming and the dog to work on a crisply dry coat.

To ensure the dryness of her coat I spent an hour drying; line drying by lifting the coat and drying close to the skin inch by inch.  The loose undercoat will release as you go and the matted spots will loosen considerably too.

This is followed up by an inch by inch line combing beginning at the bottom of the legs lifting hair up out of the way and combing small sections down.  Where there is thickness of either undercoat or matting I use my matt-breaker first followed immediately by the combing.  It is a long and methodical technique that leaves the coat completely combed out and free of matting or debris.

I finish the groom by using shears and back combing several times on the hocks, feet and front legs.  I lightly tidy the leg fringes, rear and tummy line…just enough to even out the look.  The goal is to create a look that is natural and flowing yet clean and tidy.

B

Photo B shows Reagan, groom completed and ready to go home.  Today’s groom took 3 hours which is a great improvement over spring time which took 4 ½ hours.  The plan is now to continue with both a spring and a fall groom rather than the previous once a year groom.

Pekingese Pet Trim: Pecan Pie

Today I had the pleasure of grooming Pecan Pie, a 10 year old Pekingese.  The basic premise of this grooming process is a bath, brush and tidy.

A

Photo A shows Pie after the bath and drying are done, all ready to be brushed, combed and tidied.  Her owner wanted her to have less hair on her tummy and legs that pick up wads of snow in the winter while still maintaining her breed looks.

B

Photo B shows one back foot already tidied to an tight roundness which I did using straight shears followed up with blending shears to smooth the look.  As you can see her fringy butt is still full and naturally wild looking…ready to be tidied.

C

Photo C shows the butt tidied nice and short to blend down into the shortened hock and blended foot.  This was done using straight shears pointed in a downward motion in keeping with the natural curve of the rump.

D

Photo D shows Pie’s front foot tidied and blended to the shortened hair of the front leg and the still fringy long length of her tummy.  I shortened the fringy hair on the front legs to match the hair length of the front part of the leg using straight shears with blending at the top.

E

Photo E shows Pie’s tummy line tided up shorter.  To accomplish this I tunnelled her tummy down the center only with a #4 blade leaving the wild fringes intact.  I then used straight shears to shorten the fringes a bit but not as short as the tunneled length.  That leaves less hair to pick up snow and get matted while maintaining a flowing look.

F

The final look shown in Photo F is a very Pekingese looking pet that is an easier care style.

Breed Trim: Australian Shepherd teddy bear trim

Pepper before

I have several clients that prefer to have there dog’s hair trimmed quite short for the summer.  This particular Australian Shepherd, Pepper, lives by the lake and forest so a shorter coat works better for the summer months.  I used a #3 3/4 blade to accomplish this delightful teddy bear look.  I then scissor the fringes on the front leg in a just sligthly longer length at the client’s request.  It would look just fine with the blade length going down the fronts as well.

Pepper groom complete

How do I: use a comb attachment for long natural look

This post is an answer for Julie’s question about how to get a nice smooth long hair look on a drop coated dog such as a Havanese.  I had planned to use a Shih Tzu to demonstrate the technique.  But as you will see in the photos what I ended up using is a Chihuahua/Shih Tzu cross…the Shih Tzu came in totally matted for a shave off.

This is an easy technique  to master (with practice) excellent for pet trims but not for show dog coats.  To maintain that long flowing hair look is done by using a comb attachment in as long a length as you wish the coat to be.  Now, if the longest that you have is a 1 inch comb attachment and you want a longer length; it does not matter.  It is the way that you make use of it that makes the difference.  I always begin with a freshly washed and thoroughly dried dog.  Any dampness in the coat will create tugging and an uneven look so a  clean crisply dry coat is important.  I take some time to figure out the direction of hair growth and how it falls naturally.  This determines the direction that my clippers should go.  If I am unsure, I do a test run without turning on the clippers to get the feel of how I need to proceed.

Ordinarily when using a comb attachment I bring the comb in contact with the dog’s body and it creates an even short-as-the-attachment look that has a fairly natural drop.  I follow the direction of hair growth carefully. For a totally different look occasionally if I want the coat to sit up shorter and less naturally dropped I move along the side toward the rear instead.

photo (a)

For a longer naturally dropped look I “skim” the coat in the direction of the hair growth which is usually downward as in photo (a).  The comb attachment itself does not come in contact with the body.  Notice how the teeth of the comb are barely touching the outer surface of the coat.  For the purpose of blending and ensuring evenness, I then simulate a dog’s natural shaking movement with a body roll by grasping the coat and flesh as in photos (b) and (c).

body roll photo (b)

 

body roll photo (c)

This effectively rolls the loose skin back and forth and creates a shake out of the hair.  I do not back brush at all to raise the hair but use this shake out method and skimming repeatedly until I get the length and smooth blended look I want.

It is a very effective technique but it does work best on dogs with fullness of coat rather than thin haired coats.  I remember at all times to maintain the downward and natural flowing lines of the drop coat and avoid at all costs any sideward swipes.  Those sideward swipes will create a twice as short swath through the coat.

I keep in mind that any scissoring that I use to take care of random hairs sticking out is always with the scissors pointed downward.  The blending down into the legs is also done with the blending shears pointed downward.

This technique worked well on this little fellow. His owner only wanted a “tidy” and “don’t touch the face” for him to have that wild, natural look.

 

A Gifting day in the shop

We had a couple my regular grooming dogs for a one night board…with the client’s request that just one, the Shih Tzu named Bunker, was to have a bath.  This presented me with the opportunity to gift away a free bath for the other dog, Chichuahua/Terrier x named Kodi.  When dogs come to board, even if it is just one night I always trim their nails anyway…every one gets a free nail trim in my shop.  It was a pleasant surprise for the client when she came to pick them up to discover that both were clean, nails trimmed and feet and face tidied.  It was kind of funny…she was apologizing for not having “a tip” for me which she felt I deserved due to several arrival and pick up time changes…when she noticed that I had groomed them both.  “Did you do them both?”…I just grinned.

There was also another dog, a Cairn Terrier named Dixie, that had been with us for 5 days that was due to go home the same day.  She hung out in the shop with the others while I was bathing, drying and tidying…so I thought I should give her a freebie too.  I love to see the look on people’s faces when I tell them that they got a free bath for their little loves.  Some are thrilled, some just take it in stride but still are pleased; either way I like to make it a point of doing this randomly.  A gift of my time and my enjoyment for the process of caring for their pets is also a gift for me.  It feels delightfully good to surprise some one with a gift for no reason.

Of course there are dogs that I do not know on a “grooming” level that come in just for boarding; those I would not randomly bathe just incase they have sensitive skin that I have not been told of.  I do, in fact have 2 dogs that have very sensitive skin that also board here from time to time.  Those are unfortunately not candidates for free baths but definitely get free nail trims.

This random gifting of grooming services is part of my Project 365/2012.  It feels good and makes others feel good about bringing their dogs to me for grooming and boarding.  It is not something that is possible for groomers who work out of large grooming businesses where prices and such are controlled by others but it is perfect for my Little Shop.

Breed Trim: Australian Shepherd

Tory is an Australian Shepherd, of about 13 years or so.  As I work on a senior dog of her size I prefer to not use two grooming loops if the dog is sensible and calm.  That is what Tory is…sensible and calm.  The reason for this is simply that I prefer to let her sit down and take a rest if she gets too tired.  I also watch her carefully for signs of stress and fatigue that would be harmful to her aging constitution.  For instance, during the bath, Tory looked a bit flagged so I took steps to help her…I cooled the water temperature from lukewarm down to slightly cooler.  A dog that gets overheated at her advanced age is in distress very quickly.  I noted that she is not as strong as the last time I groomed her…age is catching up with the girl…it has been 4 months.

The breed trim for an Australian Shepherd has a very natural and balanced looked to it.  It is really more of a very thorough bath, brush and comb out with a tidying of the fringe-type hair of the feet, legs and bum.

Photo(A)

Photo (A) shows Tory’s full pre-groomed coat; there was a lot of undercoat that blew out during the drying with the velocity dryer.  However, there was also a good deal of thick undercoat in places that did not let go.  Her entire body and legs had to be worked with a mat breaker to loosen it and then I able to comb it out.  Only after the coat is completely combed and all hair is free-flowing can the trimming begin.

Photo (B)

Photo (B) shows Tory’s hind feet and legs with one side trimmed and the other in their natural state.  To trim the back paws and hocks I back brushed the hair and with the shears pointed downward of the hock and forward of the paws, I trimmed the hair evenly.  I trimmed, back brushed and repeated until all was even.  I never point the shears upward toward the body or sideways of the natural growth direction.

Photo (C)

Photo (C) shows Tory’s front feet and legs from behind in their natural state.  I trimmed the front paws in the same careful back brush, trim and repeat manner.  For the fringed front legs I combed the hair in a natural flare from the leg towards the hind end. Then with my shears pointed downward I trimmed and repeated combing until a nice even natural curve toward the paw was achieved.

Photo (D)

Photo (D) shows Tory’s front paws and legs with one trimmed and the other in its natural state.

Photo (E)

Photo (E) shows one side of Tory’s bum trimmed and one in its natural state.  To achieve the most natural look I combed the hair toward the back end in the natural direction that it grows.  The amount left on in this area depends on the client’s preference.  In Tory’s case, she has a bit of incontinence which is pretty well controlled by medication but it is preferred that her bum be trimmed down a lot.

Photo (F)

Photo (F) shows Tory with the grooming completed.  It still has a lot of the natural flowing look to it but much more tidy and will not drag in as much forest debris at home.

How do I: handle dog’s feet and legs

During the grooming process I prefer to handle a dog’s feet and legs in ways that create the least amount of stress and discomfort to the dog.  I have learned over the years that getting to know the dog that I am grooming is very important.  The first source of information is, of course, the dog owner.  I always ask how past grooming experiences have been and if there were “problems”.  Sore hips, old age, and injuries can create painful movement for a dog that I prefer to avoid.

Often it is the feet that are an issue and I appreciate having a heads up on that.  It is not unusual for a dog to be sketchy about having his front feet handled.  I always make a point to lift a dog’s paws over and over during the bath…I just pick them up and put them down as I talk quietly…something like” good boy…lift a footie…and down”.  During the drying process I do the same thing over and over.  It is my theory that by the time I get around to actually having to do something like trim nails, shave pads or trim hair around the foot, the dog will be used to the idea that nothing terrible is happening when I lift a paw.

I don’t yank the paw or leg to suit my position; I move myself to suit the dog’s position.  I pick it up and put it down in as natural a movement as walking.  I avoid pulling a dog’s leg out to the side; this is a very unnatural movement.

photo (a)

I begin by lifting the paw upward in a similar way to the way it would begin to take a step.  Photo (a)

photo (b)

For working on the pads or trimming the nails I then shift the paw loosely slightly beneath the dog’s body and expose the paw’s underside.  Photo (b)  This gives me a clear view of the bottom of the paw.  If the dog shows resistance I let the paws dangle loosely up and down to encourage the dog to relax.

If the dog is tense or flinches when I touch the pad or nails I gently tap the pad or the nails until I feel the tension release.  I can then get the job done.  I repeat the process with each leg/paw.  If a dog lunges to bite I do not hesitate to place a muzzle on him.  It sometimes calms the dog and definitely protects my hands.  Some dogs are programmed to bite by previous groomers or whatever and I accept that.

Occasionally it is necessary for me to hug the dog close to my side as I work to settle the lunging behaviour and make for more accurate and safer (for the dog) trimming.

photo (c)

For working on the hair on the front legs I lift the dogs leg first up as if he were to take a step, then I move it forward to straighten it.  Photo (c) I never pull a dog’s leg out sideways…again very unnatural movement.  It is better to move around the table.

photo (d)

For working on the hair on the back legs I lift the foot from the table and move it either backward or forward in the most natural way possible.   photo (d)

photo (e)

For a large older dog with sore hips I put my shoulder under the dog between the hind legs so the dog can lean on me when I shift his weight to 3 legs.  photo (e)

photo (f)

For accessing the groin area I lift the hind leg first upward and a bit forward then mimic the way the dog would naturally lift it to urinate.  photo (f)

In any instance that the dog resists the movements I simply hold the foot loosely and when the tension releases I set it down.  Then I begin again with the handling process.

There is never a reason good enough to yank and pull roughly on a dog’s leg to get the job done.

photo (g)

On “difficult” dogs, ones that do not respond to the process above, I enlist my helper’s skills at either the “football hold” as in photo (g)

photo (h)

or if it is large dog the “bear hug” as in photo (h).  When working on the feet of a large “difficult” dog it may feel like a rodeo but the dog is held in such a way that he is not harmed by his own yanking and pulling.  I basically move with the dog which is under control…kind of.  I only have one client like that right now…used to be two but one of them figured out that it was okay to let me handle his feet.

How do I: apply eye drops and ear drops

Sometimes it is necessary to put medication prescribed by a veterinarian into a dog’s eyes or ears to clear up an infection.  Care must be taken to not contaminate the container of medication during the process.  It is important to drop the medication freely into the orifice without contact.  These photos demonstrate the technique I use with my own dogs.  I prefer to have the dog restrained by a leash or grooming loop but if you have a really good performer that will sit still for you, it may not be necessary.

photo (a)

As shown in photo (a) for eye drops I use one hand to maintain an open eye and with the other I drop the medication in from above toward the corner of the eye.

photo (b)

As shown in photo (b) for ear drops I use one hand to maintain an open ear and with other I drop the medication into the ear canal rather than the outer ear grooves.

For both types of drops, I take my time and reset our positions until things are lined up just right so that the medication goes right where it should rather than all over the dog’s hair.  Patience pays off and dogs catch on quick to what is needed so they can get on with their day.

How do I: brush a dog’s teeth

Brushing a dog’s teeth is something that should be done on a daily basis…just like people. Having this done as a service by your dog groomer every eight weeks is a pointless expense. There are wonderful enzyme based dog toothpastes that will keep the plaque at bay…just like people. But…just like people…the plaque will eventually build up and require the vet’s services. It is possible with daily brushing to slow down the build up of plaque though if daily tooth brushing is implemented.

Never, ever use human toothpaste to brush a dog’s teeth! That will make a dog sick. Always use dog toothpaste.

Photo (a)

These are the supplies that I use on my own dogs for brushing teeth. Photo (a) To begin the process I moisten the toothbrush with clear water and apply some dog toothpaste. It is important to start out with the dog restrained by a leash, either held by a helper or tied to something solid. Some dogs get weirded out the first time…until they taste the chicken or beef flavour of the dog toothpaste. I have the convenience of a grooming table but my young poodles don’t fuss now that they have tasted the flavouring.

photo (b)

With the dog standing or sitting at a comfortable level for me to reach I lift the lip and insert the toothbrush at the outer back of the mouth. Photo (b)I allow the dog to chew it if he wants to or I just brush it gently over his teeth and gums.

photo (c)

I move forward along the side brushing as I go to get the front teeth done too. Photo (c) I reapply some toothpaste on the toothbrush and repeat the process for the other side of the mouth.

The enzyme action is really what does the job in there so a lot of pressure while brushing is not necessary. This process may not go smoothly the first time so if a person only gets as far as getting the dog to chew on the toothbrush that is still getting the enzymes into play. Don’t give up…do it again the next day and the next and so on and it should get used to the idea. Some dogs are cranky about the process and that chewing is all you can expect to get but it still will slow down plaques build up. My old geezer dog Rexy is one of those growly fang-showing cranks but he gets it done anyway.

Breed Trim: Standard Poodle “pet”

There are quite a variety of grooming styles for Standard Poodles.  I do not do Show Dog grooming but rather have a range of easy care styles that I use for pet poodles.  These two Standard Poodles have been coming to my shop for a number of years.  From time to time the long lapse between grooms between grooms results in serious matting.

Black Jack during pre-shave

Angel during preshave

• They were both seriously matted this time around so I groomed both dogs in a “retriever” style with clean poodle feet, clean poodle face, short-short top-knot and teddy ears.
• Due to the heavy matted coats I pre-shaved them both as shown in their before photos.  I was able to get under the matting with a #4 blade for the most part; I had to use a #5 on the inner legs though.
• The pre-shave is often called “roughing in”.  In this case it was necessary to do it prior to the bath.  A wet matted coat would take hours upon hours to dry and leave the dog still smelling like a musty old rug.  I used a #10 blade on the face and the feet for the preshave.

Black Jack groom complete

 

Angel groom complete

• After the bath and drying process I used a #4 blade to finish off the trim on their bodies and legs.
• For the clean face and poodle feet I used a #10 blade.
• To teddy the ears I used a 5/8 inch blade and carefully scizzored around the ear leather.
• For the short-short top-knot I estimated about a 1 inch length at the center boney ridge of the skull and shaped the roundness based on that.

This will give these country-wild-living dogs an easy care coat that will last from groom to groom…maybe without matting next time.